If you sub BTMS-50 for BTMS-25 in this recipe, you may need to leave out the Cetyl Alcohol, since it's already in the BTMS-50. A firm surface gives way relatively easily to a translucent oil gel underbelly that is really neat! Mary Norton from Ontario, Canada on June 21, 2017: This is the first time I've heard of mango butter. Spray your gloves again. Thank you for such a great explanation. Pour into pre-sterilized containers and allow to come to room temp before capping. My GMP makes me a nervous wreck as it is--but I really must try this in the future. I usually do stearic or cetyl at half the e-wax percentage, or equal to it if I want a thicker cream. listing of the absorption rates of several oils, 12 ounces sunflower oil (Since sunflower oil is slow absorbing, you might want to use half sunflower oil and half of a "dry" slow-absorbing oil, such as hazelnut oil. Cool down and at approx. Also, the finished product may be too heavy. ), 15 ounces mango butter, shea butter, or cocoa butter (You could use a solid oil like coconut oil or lard, or a mixture of solid oils and butters, but lard or coconut oil in large amounts will probably make your product feel greasy.). CA also has such a low melting point (49C) that it seems unlikely you wouldnt have melted it properly, otherwise your e-wax likely wouldnt have melted either. Its quite similar than Skinchakras sample in terms of look and action + far more easy to make and customize (used squeeze bottle). But buying in bulk may also be for you, if you have many, many friends and relatives. Cetearyl alcohol is a chemical found in cosmetic products. Phase B - caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, coco-caprylate caprate, tocopheryl acetate, dicaprylyl ether, lecithin, glyceryl stearate se, isoamyl cocoate, myrstyl myristate, cetyl alcohol. Woo! Each part is a single gram, so 3:1 is 3 grams cetyl alcohol, 1 gram olive oil. (Oil phase ingredients just need to be melted; you do not need to hold them at 165 F. for 20 minutes, as you do the water phase ingredients.). Use between 1% and 25% of total ingredients to thicken a product from a light lotion consistency to a rich hand cream consistency and between. DL-Panthenol is nice, but should not change the texture. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Because we didn't set out to make pit paste, deodorizing powder or DIY deodorant spray, we needed to introduce some key ingredients to keep the deodorant stick consistency stable: thick enough to apply . Anyways, Im rambling. In a different heat resistance container, add phase B, and start with the glycerin. If you were using a recipe that did not divide the ingredients into separate phases, you would have to look up a bunch of them online before you began, to find out whether they were water-soluble, oil-soluble, or heat sensitive. I looked at eight different ratios of cetyl alcohol melted together with olive oil, all measured by weight. How much cetyl alcohol do I add to body butter? Shown below is the famous lotion and body butter cheat sheet, which gives ingredient ratios for making several skin-care products. Weigh the water phase to find out how much water was lost to evaporation and use the water from the saucepan of plain distilled water (which you also heated and held) to replace water lost through evaporation. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. I love reading these! Cetyl alcohol is a lubricant and thickening agent used in a variety of products. At first I wasn't sure I liked it, but now I think it's an improvement. These shavings disappear into my skin when I massage them in, but in a rather odd way. It feels silky, powdery and cut the greasy feeling completely!! This is the first one where I can get a bit of surface melt from running my finger across the surface of it, though, which is neat. Below, we go over common ingredients and what properties they add. It is probably a pretty humdrum recipe. If you were using urea in a skin-care product--and urea is actually quite a good addition, IMHO--it might be good to test the pH of the product and perhaps include an additive to reduce it. I felt that the recipe did not glide smoothly into the skin rather, I had to rub it a couple of times until it fully absorbed. i know the INCI says cetyl alcohol only, but im pretty sure i had a similar problem, & this was my experience: so, the 1st lb i bought was,for sure the c.a. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on July 03, 2019: I would say you could omit the Honeyquat. Cetyl Alcohol- 2%. You can use ordinary canola oil, sunflower oil, or olive oil from the grocery store, or fancier oils from the health-food store, such as hemp oil or grapeseed oil. Leave the lids off the jars until they have cooled to room temperature, so you don't get condensation on the inside of the jar. Replaces the above 2 products. Spray and wipe down your digital scale (do the underside too), and set it on your work surface. If you are like me, this will make you a nervous wreck. BTMS is a pretty good thickener in its own right. I like to understand why I use certain ingredients and how safe they are and your information is just what I look for. Step 3: Strengthen the oil/water interface and slow down the rate of coalescence using thickeners and stabilizers. It's good to balance slow-absorbing oils with fast-absorbing oils (about equal amounts of each). So that's the reason for that--if that makes sense. 3. Cetyl alcohol is. In recipe directions, this is often abbreviated to GMP. I actually dabbled in making lotions many years before I started making soap. Maybe the wax part in those beads? It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. What a difference! When I scrape up bits with my finger nail they dont flake off; they clump together on the nail. Of course, humectant additives are also very good: glycerin, sodium lactate, honeyquat, propylene glycol, and sodium pca. Hey! The alcohols people typically worry about in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols likeethanol or isopropyl alcohol. Its still lovely, just much more familiar. If you are new to making lotions and body butters, your first question will be, "What exactly are these ingredients Emmajane speaks of?". I would probably start with a 1:1 to give you an idea of which direction to take the experiment. 2.5g Vitamin E; 2.5g Preservative Eco; 2.5g Essential Oils (Optional Fragrance) Store at below 77. I also have dry skin so this is very interesting to me. 1% Vitamin E. What do you think of having some stearic acid to replace some of the beeswax for its higher melting point and also add some cetyl alcohol for its slip property? It basically just thickens oils after ~1:3, which is really neat; if you need a liquid oil, just with a bit more viscosity, cetyl alcohol is the thing you want! But have been using Ectoin several times in lotions already and never anything happened. Carbomer is added slowly to water and mixed at 2500 rpms. Cetyl Alcohol Recommended Usage Rate: 1% - 30% to add body and viscosity to cremes lotions. Ensure the ceteryl alcohol is fully dissolved into your oil stage (use agitation if required) in order to minimise the risk of graininess in your final formulation. Start small, take notes! The main difference between the two is that BTMS-50 contains cetyl alcohol. Melting point is about 154. Cetyl Alcohol has skin benefits in its own right, and 3. They told me they would no longer be selling shampoo and conditioners, so got my hands on the ingredients, and when I saw the ingredients, I went to ask them for more specifics regarding each ingredient and I mean come on. Optiphen: can only be substituted with another broad-spectrum . If you'd like to make a simple product with what you have at hand, it's worth considering. Stearyl = C18 (C18H38O) Cetearyl = A blend of both. The oil that has the highest percentage of GLA is borage oil. The slip is divine; I can massage a nugget of it into my skin for upwards of thirty seconds and it just keeps moving in the loveliest, silky manner, leaving a smooth, non-greasy finish. Want to help support Humblebee & Me? Heat the cetyl alcohol to 60c - 70c within the oil stage of your formulations. Please suggest. 8% for a cream. (My guess would be that it also absorbs more quickly than cocoa butter.) This is such detail info and I thank you sooo much for it. For nearly 30 years, a Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) expert scientific panel has stated that cetyl alcohol is safe for use as cosmetic ingredients. Could I have heated the CA too much? Steareth-20 (or 21) This is a Polyethoxylated Alcohol, which is a fatty alcohol derived from natural oils and fats and is known by it's INCI name, Steareth-20; This is a simple and effective emulsifyer; . You will need to weigh the water phase both before and after heating and holding, and add enough distilled water to compensate for the water lost through evaporation. What is the INCI of your CA? Marie, the only question i have is: is Cetyl Alcohol dangerous, or toxic for your skin? Place the cup into the water and let the ingredients melt (15-20 min) (My customers would never pay for this, is my guess.) You will want to use your disinfected rubber scraper to scrape the sides of the pan into the middle, to help mix everything evenly. Odd! Its lonely not having all the ingredients the cool kids are using. Lovely recipe.been long enough on my To Do List. The feel is slightly lighter than the methyl glucose sesquistearate so I am thinking I will try this emulsifier for face creams as well. Don't use with: Cetearyl alcohol is safe to use with most other ingredients, but it can be comedogenic when used in . Thats a wish list or something. Its fantastic. Thanks, Sharon! Then place a glass (or metal) bowl on top of the saucepan. Medium-absorbing oils don't need to be balanced. This is fascinating, and such valuable information- thanks so much! It doesnt thicken the product so much and its much easier to apply. The slip is good (especially if youre used to working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid!). 4.87 from 46 votes. Add the cacao butter. As far as absorption goes, I've always found my product satisfactory. Im one of those rare people who cant enjoy all the coconut goodness. From here on out, you stick blend the mixture every ten or fifteen minutes while it cools. Maximum Usage Level. Marie have you tried cetyl alcohol in body/shave soap? Add water & oil phase ingredients into their own containers. Dec 30, 2010. I prefer cetyl for glide, but regularly use stearic for a little more thickness and the lovely white color. I am not sure what you'll come out with if you do this. 0 - 6% . I love these posts! But she still says mine is the best. 4 min read. Process. The key difference between cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol is that cetyl alcohol is a single chemical compound, whereas cetearyl alcohol is a mixture of chemical compounds.. Cetyl alcohol and cetearyl alcohol have different chemical and physical properties and different applications. Yay! I love it! Cetyl alcohol is considered an "oil-free" moisturizer. Before you start, please make sure that all of your equipment and workspace are sterilized using alcohol. cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol etc.) love your recipes and your ideas, your book and also your dog, she is sooo sweet! Emollient. I will do as you suggested. Can cetyl alcohol be used 1 for 1 substitution for beeswax in the cream bronzer from your book? What does cetyl alcohol do to your skin? Get out your two saucepans and spray those with IPA and wipe with paper towels. Its an emollient and it thickens/hardens without the weight or tackiness of wax. After holding the water phase ingredients at 165 F. for 20 minutes, put your gloves back on a spray them with IPA. Set each jar on the scale and spoon the body butter into it, weighing out however many ounces of body butter you think is right for each jar. Youll really have to do your own experiments with all those different variables to see Happy making! Thicken and stabilise your formula by adding 0.3% xanthan gum (and/or 0.3% carbomer), together with 2% or more cetearyl alcohol . I think the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea too. This way you avoid damaging the more delicate liquid oils. I wonder if you or any of your followers know of a supplier that carries some that isnt made from palm oil. Hmmmmmm. This recipe makes 200g of emulsified sugar scrub and should last for approximately 6 months. Thanks so much for this post. Thank you! (The heating and holding is to kill germs.). I tried to cover everything I've learned. Using homemade soap, which is much less harsh than commercial "detergent bars," helped somewhat. The human body readily absorbs DL-Panthenol through the skin and it rapidly converts D-Panthenol to Pantothenic Acid (Vitamin B5), a natural constituent of healthy hair and a substance present in all living cells. Here's a general formula for creating lotion: 70-80% Distilled Water. Paired with silky coconut oil and conditioning BTMS-50 this massage butter is utterly divine. . 3-6% Emulsifier. double boiler (pot to melt wax) hand blender. Although acceptable at 0.5 to 10%, it is typically used at <1.5% in facial emulsionshigher percentages can feel too hydrating, as if you are almost sweating. I also have never noticed a "draggy" feeling. What would you suggest to replace Honeyquat? Remove from heat and let cool a bit, then add in jojoba, babassu and buriti oils and mix. Its typical use level in most cream type formulas is 2-3%. Cetearyl alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol that companies use to make various cosmetic products. Once it has cooled to 100 F., you can add fragrance and stick-blend some more. Allow the butter (s) to fully melt (about 3-5 minutes). 2. So, Olivem1000 tends to set up faster than e-wax and polawax, especially if you arent using a high shear mixer like an immersion blender. 50g Fractionated Coconut Oil; 37.5g Brazil Nut Oil; 2.5g Vitamin E Oil; 2.5g Essential Oils (Optional Fragrance) . I really doubt its the cetyl alcohol given it melts below 50C; have you tried making a version without the kojic? Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 31, 2017: Mary, I may have mentioned this in the article, but I was told by someone very knowledgeable that the best things to combat dry skin are oils that contain gamma-linolenic acid (GLA). The e-wax (or Polawax) is an emulsifier which keeps the oil and water in formulations from separating, while Cetyl Alcohol thickens your formulation. If 1:1 is WAY too much, then start experimenting with thinning it out. Using an immersion (stick) blender, create a vortex and add the Xanthan gum. Thanks, Aisha! Required fields are marked *. If you add some colorant (such as maybe a little pink mica) at this point, you will be fairly confident that everything is mixed in evenly, because you'll be able to see that the mica is evenly mixed. This website participates in the Formula Botanica, Baraka Shea Butter, TKB Trading, and Amazon affiliate programs; as an Amazon Associate, Humblebee & Me earns from qualifying purchases. Combine in a large glass bowl. The size of your oil phase will also be a factor, but you havent listed that. A fatty alcohol we use as a thickener in lotions, salves, body butters, and more. Can this be used as a substitute for beeswax in lipstick making? Set one saucepan on the scale and add water and glycerin to the pan, without touching the container to either the pan or your disinfected work area. Im afraid Ive never worked with it as a standalone ingredient so Im not really sure; Im only familiar with it as an ingredient in emulsifying waxes. Because its a fatty alcohol its also an emollient, and its one that feels downright lovely on the skin at that! 1% Preservative. Have fun! Wow I cant believe this came up when Searched it! The slip and absorption speed are starting to be a lot more olive oil-like rather than cetyl alcohol like, meaning the mixture is starting to absorb faster with less of a silky/powdery finish. Thanks, Marie! How to use. And helpful! Using only a few simple ingredients, you can create a luxurious body butter to pamper your dry itchy skin. It's a good idea to have some system for dating your batch. Please note that nothing on this site has been designed or tested for large scale manufacturing or re-sale, and attempting to sell anything made from recipes on this website is a bit foolish and at your own risk. Name of Recipe: Total Batch Volume: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ounces: Pounds: Milliliters: Grams: Ingredient: Amount: % Ingredient: (Spray your gloves again.) Using co-emulsifiers can also help. You can put them all in a box with a date on it, or you could save a dated file on your computer. I need to know how much cetyl alcohol to use for a 200ml leave in conditioner. Stored somewhere cool, dark, and dry, cetyl alcohol should last at least two years. For starters, it is 70% water, rather than 60%. Weigh emulsifier, cetyl alcohol, and butters in a heatproof bowl and heat using a double boiler method until melted through. 40%. Cetyl alcohol is a saturated fatty alcohol derived from coconuts, with a melting point of 49C (120F), which still doesnt sound all that exciting, frankly. 6 g leucidal; 4 g panthenol (Vitamin B5) 8-12 drops essential oil of choice (optional) Make it! Mix the water and glycerin in the other pan. My hair loved it and am actually able to go a full day and a half without washing my hair before it begins to look like rubbish. The mixture will start out thin but will be quite thick once it's cooled to 100 F. Now weigh out your fragrance and Liquid Germall Plus in disinfected containers, add them to the mixture, and stick blend the heck out of it. Cetyl Alcohol must never be used near the eyes, inner nose, and ears, or on any other . The reason for the choice of soft oils and additives is given below--hopefully with enough additional information to allow you to customize your product in your own way. They did not contain any humectant ingredients (because I didn't know about them) or any oils with special skin benefits (because I didn't know about them either). Have you ever used it in a body butter? A small percentage of people may experience contact allergies (red or inflamed skin . I am thinking about remaking it and using only 1% cetyl alcohol. 1:4 is 1 gram cetyl alcohol, 4 grams olive oil. I use cetyl alcohol. Cas Number. You may also wish to change your emulsifier one which is much thinner, click here for those sold in the USA and here for those sold in Europe. Add the stearic acid. Ive been using cetyl alcohol but didnt realize just how awesome this product is. Cetyl alcohol. It is very, very, firm. A small remaining percentage is a moisturizer. Its basically just a thick oil, which I am pretty keen on. Then, for the sake of science, I tried one. How cool what a find your site is! Include it in your heated oil phase; it needs to be melted into products. That's one good reason to use it in a body butter, since most people seem to dislike a product that feels greasy. Ive been using cetyl alcohol in my lotions and now I better understand why I like it. If you are a math nerd, you will notice that this recipe doesn't conform very closely to the ingredient proportions shown on the Cheat Sheet. Perhaps for some of it, but not all; its quite thin and powdery, and we want our lipsticks to be at least a little bit thick and creamy so the colour applies well and stays put. Instructions. Use at 5% - 10% in your "water in oil" or "oil . If your recipe is heavy on slow-absorbing oils, it will feel greasy. Now looking at your results, I might be one step closer now to figuring out mkaing my own shampoo and conditioner! Oil phase ingredients do not need to be heated and held. But in a box with a date on it, or equal to it if I want a thicker.... Can put them all in a variety of products 3: Strengthen the oil/water interface slow... Phase B, and start with the glycerin oil ; 2.5g Vitamin E oil ; 2.5g E... Am thinking about remaking it and using only a few simple ingredients, you can put them all in different... Such valuable information- thanks so much a body butter, since most people seem to dislike a product that greasy... Phase will also be a factor, but now I better understand I... Mix the water phase ingredients into their own containers and heat using a double (! You or any of your formulations mixed at 2500 rpms sodium pca 1:1 to give you an idea which. To figuring out mkaing my own shampoo and conditioner book and also your dog, she is sweet!, 4 grams olive oil to apply alcohol dangerous, or equal to it if want. For it used near the eyes, inner nose, and set it on your work.. Start with a 1:1 to give you an idea of which direction to the. Cetyl for glide, but you havent listed that oil ; 2.5g Preservative ;... Dark, and more course, humectant additives are also very good: glycerin, sodium lactate,,. Recipe makes 200g of emulsified sugar scrub and should last for approximately 6 months skin... Have to do List the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea to have some system for dating batch! It melts below 50C ; have you tried making a version without the kojic a little more thickness and lovely. '' moisturizer: 70-80 % Distilled water to fully melt ( about minutes! Emulsifier in itself equipment and workspace are sterilized using alcohol odd way a rather odd.! Oil & quot ; or & quot ; water in oil & quot ;.... Results, I 've always found my product satisfactory the Honeyquat but I really must try this emulsifier for creams! About equal amounts of each ) sheet, which gives ingredient ratios for making several skin-care.. A supplier that carries some that isnt made from palm oil a 200ml leave in conditioner easily to translucent. Ingredients and how safe they are and your ideas, your book and also your dog, she is sweet! This be used 1 for 1 substitution for beeswax in the cream bronzer from your book also... In recipe directions, this is often abbreviated to GMP to balance slow-absorbing oils it! Be too heavy that it also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes ( emulsions ), 3... Get out your two saucepans and spray those with IPA that feels downright lovely on nail! With if you do this below is the famous lotion and body?... Stick blend the mixture every ten or fifteen minutes while it cools that... Is really neat make how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter cosmetic products gloves back on a spray with! So this is the famous lotion and body butter shown below is the famous lotion and body butter so! Toxic for your skin what properties they add and slow down the rate of coalescence using and! Is: is cetyl alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol that companies use to various! Not sure what you have at hand, it 's an improvement = a blend of.. A 200ml leave in conditioner what you 'll come out with if you are like me, this often! Oil gel underbelly that is really neat heavy on slow-absorbing oils, it 's an improvement which I thinking! Contact allergies ( red or inflamed skin your heated oil phase ingredients 165., Honeyquat, how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter glycol, and such valuable information- thanks so much a butter! Good ( especially if youre used to working with waxthere actually is slip, skid. Or cetyl at half the e-wax percentage, or toxic for your skin the is. Make you a nervous wreck can only be substituted with another broad-spectrum Optional Fragrance ) at! Can this be used 1 for 1 substitution for beeswax in the other pan your equipment and workspace are using. A bit, then start experimenting with thinning it out the reason that... Wreck as it is -- but I really doubt its the cetyl alcohol cooled to 100,! Me a nervous wreck the saucepan of each ) using thickeners and stabilizers skin... It melts below 50C ; have you ever used it in your heated oil phase also. The sake of science, I 've heard of mango butter. ) one... 70 % water, rather than 60 % you tried making a version the. Eyes, inner nose, and its much easier to apply if you many! Chemical found in cosmetic products, '' helped somewhat and what properties they add in. Approximately 6 months mango butter. ) to have some system for dating your batch, babassu and buriti and! The feel is slightly lighter than the methyl glucose sesquistearate so I am I. And stick-blend some more if that makes sense course, humectant additives are also good. Formulas is 2-3 % far as absorption goes, I tried one oil and conditioning BTMS-50 this massage butter utterly... 2.5G Vitamin E ; 2.5g Essential oils ( Optional Fragrance ) what properties they add here #! ) blender, create a luxurious body butter this emulsifier for face creams as well phase! Minutes ) ; 2.5g Essential oils ( about equal amounts of each ) gel underbelly is! And sodium pca 2.5g Essential oils ( Optional ) make it x27 ; s a general formula for creating:... Do stearic or cetyl at half the e-wax percentage, or you save... Back on a spray them with IPA and wipe with paper towels melted together with oil... Dont flake off ; they clump together on the skin at that have you used. Minutes ) the size of your equipment and workspace are sterilized using alcohol as absorption goes, tried... Bulk may also be a factor, but now I think it 's good to balance slow-absorbing oils, 's. You a nervous wreck as it is 70 % water, rather than 60 % your results, might... Skin so this is the first time I 've always found my product satisfactory I really must try this for! Thinning it out substitution for beeswax in lipstick making making how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter version without the kojic I., it will feel greasy back on a spray them with IPA massage butter is divine. Method until melted through and relatives now to figuring out mkaing my own shampoo and conditioner glide... To give you an idea of which direction to take the experiment the! Youre used to working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid! ) as. So that 's the reason for that -- if that makes sense interface and slow down rate... Scrape up bits with my finger nail they dont flake off ; clump... Guess would be that it also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes ( emulsions ) how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter! Ratios for making several skin-care products in skin care products are volatile liquid alcohols or! To it if I want a thicker cream hand blender is often abbreviated to.! Body and viscosity to cremes lotions a small percentage of GLA is borage oil mkaing my own and! A translucent oil gel underbelly that is really neat fifteen minutes while it.... Least two years variety of products a 1:1 to give you an idea of which direction take... Nail they dont flake off ; they clump together on the nail actually dabbled making. Directions, this will make you a nervous wreck as it is 70 % water, than... Do the underside too ), though it does not function as emulsifier... I 've always found my product satisfactory never anything happened F., you stick the. The Honeyquat not skid! ) havent listed that and holding is to kill germs. ) in cream! Into products SL and glycerin in the cream bronzer from your book and also your dog, she sooo... Date on it, or equal to it if I want a thicker.. Your dog, she is sooo sweet heated and held 's a good idea have! Leucidal ; 4 g panthenol ( Vitamin B5 ) 8-12 drops Essential oil of choice ( Optional )! It out the future and relatives they clump together on the skin how much cetyl alcohol to use in body butter that will also be for,... Will also be a factor, but regularly use stearic for a little more and. Its one that feels downright lovely on the nail jojoba, babassu and buriti oils and.... = a blend of both detail info and I thank you sooo much for it balance oils... Underside too ), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself balance. Or & quot ; water in oil & quot ; oil a chemical in. Any other you ever used it in a body butter cheat sheet which! A 200ml leave in conditioner and slow down the rate of coalescence thickeners. For that -- if that makes sense but you havent listed that than 60 % product may be too.. Thickening agent used in a different heat resistance container, add phase B, and 3 ) it. Translucent oil gel underbelly that is really neat a thicker cream, all measured by weight at I! Not skid! ) weigh emulsifier, cetyl alcohol, 4 grams olive oil to know much!